The Whole Hog

The Whole Hog

I know that if I put this picture first, the rest of the post will be an anticlimax, but I have to do it. Leeds is a town where none of a pig goes to waste.
The Whole Hog
Apparently if you chop up pig rectum, dip it in breadcrumbs, and deep fry it, it tastes just like calamari. Of course, no Yorkshireman would go shopping for something as poncey as pig rectum. Up here they call an arsehole an arsehole. You could also buy pig heads, stomachs, trotters, tripe, tendons, and bones. The other less mentionable bits probably go in the pork pies.

We set out this morning to explore the shopping district, via the gaily lighted catacombs of Leeds Railway Station.
Under Leeds Railway
First stop was the Corn Exchange, a building with a lovely oval dome of iron, wood, and glass, now full of boutique shops and ping pong tables.
Leeds Corn Exchange

Then on to Kirkgate Market where Marks and Spencer’s started out.
Original M&S
It’s amazing to think that the retail giant sprang from a tiny stall not at all like this in a completely different location in the market.

The original market building is another delightful Victorian ironwork concoction.
Kirkgate
However it spreads east into twentieth century halls totally lacking in character, and finally to an outdoor space. One long aisle through a newer halls is the butchers and fishmongers. As well as pig heads, you can also buy fish heads by the kilo.
Fish Heads
The fish heads are quite a bit cheaper than the pork arseholes, which says something about our values. But don’t be upset, little fish heads. One day a fish head may grow up to be President, because it’s already happened to an arsehole.

On to Victoria Leeds, a set of Victorian shopping arcades now restored and full of yet more boutique shops.
Victoria Leeds
The interior artwork supporting the roof has tributes to various local gods.
Brian, the god of coal mining.
God of coal mining
Desmond, the god of cost overruns.
Desmond
Elsie, the goddess of mildew.
Elsie
Mabel, the goddess of eating ice cream cones in the nude.
Mabel

Yorkshire is not noted for the consumption of frosty comestibles in the all together, mostly because the climate is too cold, but today would have been a good for Mabel’s devotees, as the sun was shining all day and the temperatures made it up to 86F (30C). Any more of this and folks will start taking off their long woolen underwear. (Or is that Mormons?)

After a couple of hours of retail exposure I headed back to the Royal Armouries Museum and left Paula to buy things for the boat. I’m going to leave you with one last piece of armour, this one from India in the early 19th century.
Pangolin armour
It’s made of pangolin (spiny anteater) scales, each one hand decorated.
Pangolin scales
It’s the only pangolin scale armour in the world. I’m not sure why you would want it, it obviously didn’t work for the pangolin.

4 thoughts on “The Whole Hog

  1. Eliza Acton’s Modern Cookery, published around the mid 1800s (too lazy to research the date) has a recipe for Cod’s Head. The sauce needs 50 oysters.

    1. Right after I took the picture a woman bought two pounds of fish heads, so there is obviously a demand for them.

  2. The cheeks from cod heads are now much sought after by all the up market restaurants , particularly in London.Is this a marketing opportunity!?

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